When the Window You Have Is Not the Window You Need
We see three kinds of replacement jobs. Failed windows: the old egress window will not open, the crank is stripped, the seal is fogged, the frame is rotted. Undersized windows: a previous owner or contractor installed a window that never met the code minimums — wrong clear opening, sill too high. Tired wells: the window is fine but the well is rusted out, caved in, or draining nowhere. All three are fixable; the second one sometimes means enlarging the opening, not just swapping the window.
Swap vs. Resize: The Honest Assessment
If the existing opening already meets code — right size, right sill height — replacement is straightforward: out with the old window, in with the new, resealed and trimmed. If the opening never met code, a swap changes nothing about compliance. We measure first and tell you which job you actually have. Nobody likes hearing "the opening needs to be bigger," but hearing it from us during a free visit beats hearing it from a county inspector.
What Gets Replaced With the Window
A replacement is the right time to fix the parts around the window: deteriorated well walls, missing ladders, failed drainage, and covers that no longer lift. We quote the whole system, not just the glass — because a new window in a failed well is money half spent. See our well, drainage, and cover services for the pieces.
Permits Still Apply
A straight same-size swap is simpler on permits than a new cut, but Fairfax County still wants to know about structural work — and if we are enlarging the opening, that is a structural cut with the full permit path. We handle the paperwork either way. Our permit guide explains the county process.
How It Works: Our Process
Step 1 — Free visit and measurement. We measure your existing opening against all five code numbers and assess the window, the well, and the drainage.
Step 2 — Honest verdict. Swap, resize, or full rebuild — we tell you which job you actually have, with itemized pricing for each.
Step 3 — Permit. Same-size swaps take the simpler path; enlarged openings get the full structural permit. We handle the paperwork.
Step 4 — Replace. Old window out, opening corrected if needed, new window set, sealed, and trimmed. Well, ladder, and drainage fixed in the same visit when they need it.
Step 5 — Inspection and handoff. The county verifies the work, and you test everything yourself before we leave.
Signs the Old Window Has Failed
Windows tell you when they are done. The crank spins without moving the sash. The slider needs two hands and a shoulder. Fog lives permanently between the panes. The frame is soft at the corners or the paint will not stay on. Water stains appear on the wall below after storms. Any one of these means the window is past its useful life — and on an egress window, "past its useful life" means the escape route is compromised. Do not wait for it to fail completely; a window that will not open is already an emergency waiting for a date.
Resizing an Opening That Never Met Code
This is the awkward discovery: the old window was never code-sized to begin with — the opening is too small or the sill too high, and a straight swap would just install a new non-compliant window. The fix is enlarging the opening: more cutting, a bigger window, and sometimes a deeper well. It costs more than a swap, and it is the only option that actually solves the problem. We would rather tell you this on the free visit than install a window that fails inspection.
What Happens to the Old Well
The window gets the attention, but the well gets inspected too. Rusted-through metal, caved-in walls, missing ladders, and dead drains all get flagged during our assessment — and fixed in the same project, because a new window in a failed well is half a job. If the well is sound, it stays; we do not sell work you do not need. Every project is different — contact us for a free written estimate.
Timing: Replace Before It Fails
The worst time to replace an egress window is after it has failed — a stuck window discovered during a real emergency, or a leak found when the basement carpet is already wet. The best time is when the window first shows its age: the crank getting stiff, fog between the panes, small leaks after storms. Replacing on your schedule means you choose the style, the timing, and the price — instead of paying emergency rates for whatever is available. If your basement window is over fifteen years old, have it assessed during a free visit. The assessment costs nothing; the surprise failure costs plenty.
Call (301) 679-9193 or send the form for a free written estimate.